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A ROMANTIC ITALIAN WEEKEND IN A CASTLE?
faustina_g
- May 6, 2024
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‘Oh let’s just pack and go’ we said, last Saturday morning…’let’s be spontaneous and see where we end up’. For me, born and raised in England, one of the joys of being in Europe is knowing that we don’t have to book planes or ferries, we can just climb in a car and in a few hours be in a different country. But as it happened we didn’t need to go as far as another country.
We stopped in Pergine at the beginning of Valle di Valsugana near the Dolomites to study the map, looked up at the mountains and there it was, the majestic, medieval fortress of Castel Pergine, once the seat of Emperor Maximilian I of Austria but now, as we discovered, in the capable and creative hands of Swiss couple Verena Neff and Theo Schneider. The sign pointing up the mountainside seemed to beckon us up….so up we went.
It was Saturday evening, we had no booking but the gods were smiling down on us. We took the last available bedroom – perhaps the very space where Albrecht Durer allegedly slept – a simple but delightful room overlooking a grassy inner ‘keep’ surrounded by ivy-laden crenellated walls.
This inner courtyard was where we gratefully sat after our drive, savouring the last rays of the sun sinking over still-snow-covered mountain tops, inhaling the heady evening scent of flowering shrubs, listening to a gentle hum of bees and sipping a local ‘Nosiola’ white wine.
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A fillet of salmon followed studded with coriander seeds that popped spicily in the mouth and supported gallantly by ‘squeezed’ (their translation) turmeric potatoes and broccoli. For a final flourish we shared a superior tart of lemon vanilla cream topped with almonds and a scattering of fresh berries.
Retreating to the intimate bar afterwards we finished with an espresso coffee (decaffeinato) serenaded by live piano music and plotted the route back to our bedroom. It’s no easy matter finding your way round a strange rambling medieval castle….but somehow we managed!
Highly recommended for somewhere a little special or different without being pricey. Check the internet for availability and prices: http://www.castelpergine.it Closed from November to April.